Hermès Birkin Bag Styles: The Ultimate Guide

grey Hermès Birkin bag

The Hermès Birkin has captivated the fashion world like no other bag in history. Inspired by and created for actress and singer Jane Birkin, the bag’s original design was rooted in utility: a chic, structured carryall elegant enough for Parisian society yet sufficiently practical to suit a busy mom on the go. Four decades later, the Birkin bag has evolved into the most coveted handbag on the planet — a beloved symbol of craftsmanship, exclusivity, and enduring style. 

Of course, the Birkin’s timeless style doesn’t mean it never changes. Hermès has released a dazzling array of Birkin styles, from subtle construction innovations like the Sellier Birkin to extraordinary artistic designs like the Faubourg. With an ever-growing palette of colors, materials, sizes, exotic skins, custom options, and special editions, Hermès designers continue to reimagine the iconic bag, treating us to at least 34 styles — and counting!

Let’s explore the many styles collectors love, from timeless classics to rare and imaginative limited edition Birkins.  

The Foundation of the Icon: Classic Birkin Bag Styles

Before there were limited editions, artistic collaborations, and other rare Birkin styles, there was the original Birkin bag — its shape, structure, and saddle stitching that would provide the essential blueprint for every Birkin to come. 

1. HAC (Haut à Courroies): The Original Birkin Bag

The Haut à Courroies — or HAC — predated the Birkin and is considered its direct ancestor. Originally created in the early 1900s to carry riding boots and gear, the HAC features a tall, slim silhouette. When Jean-Louis Dumas first sketched the Birkin aboard that fateful midnight flight, he based his design — and the eventual prototype — on the HAC, adjusting its proportions to suit everyday use. Today, the HAC, often called the “HAC Birkin,” is prized as a travel bag, particularly in the 40cm and 50cm sizes. 

2. Birkin Retourne: The Classic Birkin Bag

“Retourne” describes the construction method for the original Birkin. Retourne Birkins are crafted from soft leathers, such as Togo and Clemence, and then reversed — retourné — turned inside out. This technique creates a more relaxed, slightly slouched silhouette. The sides of a Retourne Birkin gently curve outwards toward the base, and the bag can hold slightly more than the structured Sellier. The smoothly inverted seams are finished with leather piping for a polished look. The most recognizable and beloved style Birkin, the Retourne is a favorite for everyday elegance.

3. Birkin Sellier: The Structured Birkin Bag

The Sellier Birkin was introduced in 2014, imparting the crisp, clean lines of the classic Kelly bag to the Birkin. The sharper, more architectural take highlights the bag’s trapezoidal shape and makes this style dressier than the original. The cut seams are finished in colored wax that complements the colorway, creating another subtle design point that elevates the bag’s appeal. The Sellier Birkin forms the foundation of possibly the most highly coveted Birkin style of all — the Faubourg. 

Material-Driven Birkins: From Barenia to Exotics

Some Birkin styles are defined by the exquisite materials that bring them to life. From rugged canvas to hand-dyed crocodile skin, each of these styles stands out for its unique texture, visual appeal, and rarity.

4. Barenia Birkin

As our guide to Hermès leathers attests, the Maison uses an extraordinary array of sumptuous leathers to create its luxury bags. But Barenia — the original Hermès leather — holds special appeal with collectors. The smooth, water-resistant saddle leather develops a rich patina with use. This Birkin is rare and highly collectible, as the specific tanning process that produces Barenia is known only to a select few master artisans.

5. Grizzly Birkin

Crafted from Veau Doblis or Grizzly suede and accented with smooth leather such as Box or Swift, the Grizzly Birkin introduced a rugged elegance to the 2010 Birkin lineup. The contrast in textures gives this style an intentionally relaxed, almost sporty aesthetic. Released in earthy, natural tones such as Etoupe, Gold, and Gris Caillou, the Grizzly Birkin feels equally at home in a mountain chalet or a modern cityscape.

6. Toile or Canvas Birkins

Surprised to see a Canvas Birkin? Hermès has long embraced toile (the French word for canvas) for its light weight, durability, and timeless equestrian aesthetic. Toile Birkins often pair neutral-toned canvas with Swift or Barenia leather trim, creating a refined yet casual contrast. Some styles in this Birkin bag collection feature eye-catching patterned canvas — utter catnip for collectors.

7. Feutre Birkin

Minimalist and modern, the Feutre Birkin is crafted from Feutre H — a felted wool traditionally used for Hermès hat linings — and trimmed with Swift leather. This rare style is typically produced in the HAC 40cm and is a cherished travel bag. 

8. Exotic Birkins

Birkins crafted from exotic skins such as crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard represent the pinnacle of luxury. Porosus and Niloticus Crocodile Birkins — available in both shiny or matte finishes — are among the most expensive and highly coveted Birkins ever created. Alligator Birkins have a similar, scaled appearance and, like the bejeweled-looking Lizard Birkins, are produced only in smaller Birkin sizes due to the limited size of the hides. The signature follicles of Ostrich Birkins give them a whimsical, polka-dot appearance, and the durable skin ages beautifully over time. 

9. Touch Birkin

Introduced in 2017, the Touch Birkin offers collectors a touch of exotic skin by accenting a leather Birkin with a flap, handles, or sangles in crocodile, alligator, ostrich, or lizard skin. This limited edition Birkin is so rare that its cost often rivals bags crafted entirely from exotic skin.

10. Himalaya Birkin

Even among exotic Birkins, the Himalaya Birkin stands apart. Crafted from pearly Niloticus crocodile skin, it is painstakingly hand-dyed with soft chestnut grey along the edges to evoke the misty peaks of the Himalayas. The effect is breathtaking. 

11. Diamond Birkin

The Diamond Birkin elevates Hermès luxury to new heights. This ultra-rare type of Birkin bag features hardware — including the Touret, Cadena, and Clochette — encrusted with white diamonds set in 18k white gold. Hermès has released Diamond Birkins in shiny black and fuchsia crocodile, but the Diamond Himalaya Birkin remains the Maison’s most cherished Holy Grail. 

12. HSS (Special Order) Birkins

Special-Order Birkins are the ultimate status symbol. Reserved for brand VIPs, these bespoke designs allow clients to choose from an elite menu of leathers, colors, stitching, and hardware options to create a one-of-a-kind piece. Most HSS bags feature two colors — often the bag and flap in one color, with the handles, sangles, and side panels in a contrasting hue.

13. Picnic Birkin

The Picnic Birkin is pure warm-weather whimsy. Crafted from handwoven Osier wicker for the body and trimmed in Swift or Barenia leather for the flap, handles, and sangles, this highly collectible limited-edition bag captures the spirit of summer. Though light-hearted in appearance, this style is among the most technically demanding Hermès has ever produced.

Birkin Bag Styles that Play with Color and Shine

Hermès is rightly revered for its mastery of color, and that virtuosity is on full display in these Birkin bag styles defined by bold palettes, artistic contrast, and luminous finishes. 

14. Coup de Soleil Birkin

French for “sunburn,” the Coup de Soleil Birkin playfully reimagines a day in the sun. This limited edition HAC Birkin features the ghostly silhouette of the clochette and lock as if they had been left on the bag during a self-tanning session. The stencil-like, sun-faded pattern adds humor, warmth, and an insider wink to a stunning bag.

15. So Black Birkin

The limited edition So Black Birkin is the epitome of monochromatic cool. Black leather is paired with hardware coated with PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition). PVD transforms metal hardware into a dark, smoky, nearly black gleam. The Birkin So Black by Jean-Paul Gaultier is one of the most coveted Birkin bag styles

16. Metallic Birkin

Hermès first introduced the Metallic Birkin in 2005 in rich silver and bronze shades. These limited-edition Birkins were an instant sensation and remain highly sought after. Collectors cheered at the close of the 2024 season when the Maison released Doré, a luxurious metallic gold, as a new color. And the new colors for spring 2025 include Gris Argenté — a glamorous metallic silver.

17. Colormatic Birkin

Released in 2022, this eye-catching Birkin bag features bold color-blocking and unexpected details like exterior zippered pockets and brightly contrasting sangles. Crafted in smooth Swift leather using up to five complementary colors, the Colormatic Birkin adds a playful, modern twist to the classic silhouette.

18. Casaque Birkin

The Casaque Birkin (not to be confused with Birkin bags in the shade rouge Casaque!) is a masterclass in color blocking. Each of these 2021 limited-edition Birkins comes in specific colorways, such as Rouge Casaque and Rose Extreme, with bright Blue Zanzibar inside. The bag is divided vertically, with Rose Casaque (for example) on one side and Rose Extreme on the other. On the flap, the colors are reversed, creating a sophisticated, oversized checkerboard effect on the front. 

19. Sunrise and Sunset Rainbow Birkins

Released in 2020 and 2021, the Sunrise and Sunset Birkins captivate collectors with their vivid color-blocking and Sellier construction. Four softly arched stripes sweep horizontally across the bag’s front, creating a stylized rainbow. Sunrise is made up of Lime, Sesame, Rose Confetti, and Terre Battue, while the Sunset Birkin features Abricot, Blue Agate, Magnolia, and Rouge Casaque.

20. Club Birkin

The Club Birkin offers a sporty, graphic twist on the traditional silhouette. Introduced in 2012, this limited edition Birkin is defined by a bold center stripe flanked by two slimmer, contrasting bands. Some versions of this Birkin feature exotic skins for the accent strips, adding visual intrigue.

Birkin Bag Styles: Where Artistry Meets Innovation

The master artisans of Hermès are artists in the truest sense, occasionally indulging in spectacular flights of fancy that thrill even the most seasoned collectors. 

21. Ghillies Birkin

Inspired by traditional brogue shoes, the Ghillies Birkin is framed with intricate, perforated leather trim. The classic broguing of men’s dress shoes makes the Ghillies Birkin feel exceptionally feminine and graceful. 

22. Tressage Birkin

Introduced in 2018, the Tressage Birkin offers striking visual texture with a multicolored central panel of braided leather. This type of Birkin is available in just a few carefully crafted colorways.

23. Birkin Rock

Fashion-savvy men have long embraced both Birkin and HAC styles. In 2022, Hermès released its first Birkin designed specifically for men — Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Birkin Rock — adding a rebellious edge to the iconic silhouette. Offered exclusively in black, this amped-up HAC Birkin features a half-moon zippered pocket set at a rakish angle, an external snapped pouch, and a gleaming palladium Chaîne d’Ancre. The 40cm HAC Birkin Rock is especially popular with men, while the 25cm Birkin Rock has become a favorite for women.

24. Shoulder Birkin 

The Shoulder Birkin reimagines the iconic silhouette as a comfortable shoulder bag. With longer rolled handles, a wider body, and a slightly shorter height than the classic Birkin, it slides effortlessly over the shoulder while retaining the elegance of the original. Introduced in 2004 as part of Jean Paul Gaultier’s debut collection, the JPG Shoulder Birkin was discontinued in 2014 and triumphantly re-released in 2024.

25. Shadow Birkin

First introduced in 2009 by then-creative director Jean Paul Gaultier, the Shadow Birkin offers a stunning trompe-l’œil twist on the classic design. Instead of traditional hardware and a functional flap, the Shadow features sculpted impressions of the iconic flap, sangles, and clochette embossed directly into the leather. The effect mimics the relaxed way many women wear their Birkins — open, with the sangles loose. In recent years, Hermès has released this rare Birkin in new colors and sizes, and even a clutch.

26. Fray Fray Birkin

The Fray Fray Birkin brings a deconstructed edge to the classic silhouette. Released in 2021, this limited edition Birkin pairs a boldly colored leather top, flap, and handles with a light, neutral twill body. The side gussets are crafted from twill that matches the leather, creating a dramatic interplay of color. Along the seams, the canvas is left raw-cut and deliberately frayed, revealing flashes of contrast that evoke minimalist fringe with an architectural twist.

27. In and Out Birkin

This imaginative Birkin turns the idea of privacy inside out — quite literally. Released at the end of 2021, the Birkin In and Out features printed artwork that depicts the purported contents of the bag, including a Rodeo bag charm, lipstick, lip pencil, compact, and a Hermès pouch. 

28. Inside Out Birkin

Not to be confused with the printed In and Out, the Inside Out Birkin takes a literal approach to its name. Released for 2025, this daring limited-edition Birkin is crafted from the inside out — as are all Birkin styles — but skips the final step where the bag would normally be turned. As a result, the zip pocket is exposed on the outside, while the Touret fastener and Pontet brackets remain inside the bag. The deconstructed appeal makes this Birkin feel relaxed and casual yet distinctly avant-garde. On the Spring/Summer runway, this extraordinary bag was folded in half and carried under the arm like a clutch. 

29. Birkin en Desordre

Introduced in 2023, the Birkin en Désordre (French for “in disorder”) playfully deconstructs the classic silhouette and rearranges it all askew. This exceedingly rare Birkin features a half flap set diagonally across one corner, an exterior slip pocket on the front, and a cattywampus zip pocket on the back. The innovative design is highly collectible, especially in neutral shades.

30. Faubourg Tropical Birkin

Even among Hermès’s most imaginative releases, the Faubourg Tropical Birkin is a bold outlier. Released in 2022, this extraordinary Birkin features a twill canvas body with a white Swift leather top, flap, handles, and corner reinforcements. The twill is lushly embroidered with a tropical fantasy complete with parrots, palm fronds, massive ferns, a lounging leopard, and a playful monkey. In a stunning design flourish, the embroidered foliage spills beyond the canvas to continue across the smooth leather top.

31. Faubourg Birkin

No Hermès Birkin captures the imagination quite like the Faubourg. Released in 2019, this limited edition Birkin is a three-dimensional tribute to the brand’s flagship boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Built on a Sellier Birkin 20cm, each version — Day, Night, Midnight, Snow, and Rainy Days — depicts the iconic storefront in fantastic detail. A mosaic of leathers and exotic skins forms architectural elements like stonework, roof, windows, and awnings. The clochette is shaped like an Hermès shopping bag!

The Faubourg Birkin is an artistic tour de force — and in recent years, this extraordinary limited edition Birkin has even challenged the Diamond Himalaya for the title of ultimate Grail Birkin. For a closer look at its construction, colorways, and collectibility, explore our comprehensive guide to the Faubourg Birkin.

32. Disco Faubourg Birkin

Released in 2024, the Disco Faubourg Birkin delivers an ironic twist to the rare Birkin. The iconic 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré storefront is reimagined as a casual graffiti-style chalk sketch scrawled across black or dark brown Box leather. The traditional lock is replaced with a glittering disco ball. The result is surreal, rebellious, and unforgettable.

Utility-Minded Birkins

These limited-edition styles reimagine the Birkin for on-the-go lifestyles — adding exterior pockets, detachable elements, and clever storage solutions.

33. Cargo Birkin

The Cargo Birkin is Hermès’s most storage-savvy Birkin to date. Released in 2020, this limited edition Birkin is constructed with a lightweight canvas body trimmed in Swift leather and features five exterior pockets — including a removable cup holder for your coffee. Combining utility with unmistakable Hermès style, the Cargo Birkin quickly became a collector favorite. In 2024, Hermès introduced the Cargo in denim, and for 2025, striking contrasting colorways have been released.

34. 3-in-1 Birkin 

Released in 2012, the 3-in-1 Birkin features innovative construction that offers three distinct ways to wear the bag. A removable canvas zip pouch carries the distinctive leather flap. With the pouch in place, the bag resembles a traditional type of Birkin. Remove the pouch, and you can carry it as a chic clutch or wear the leather base as an open tote for a more relaxed look. 

Collecting Hermès Birkin Bag Styles

From timeless classics like the Retourne and Sellier to daring limited editions like the So Black and the Faubourg, the world of Hermès Birkins is endlessly fascinating and rewarding. Each style reflects the Maison’s unmatched commitment to craftsmanship, artistry, and elegance. 

We will continue to update our ultimate guide to Birkin bag styles as new variations and innovations are released. At Madison Avenue Couture, we offer the largest selection of Hermès Birkin bags in North America — including many of the rare and exceptional styles listed here. Like you, we’re continually intrigued by every new chapter in the Birkin’s evolution.

Judy Taylor

CEO & Founder of Madison Avenue Couture
Judy Taylor, the CEO and founder of Madison Avenue Couture is one of the most respected authorities on luxury bags and accessories. Her unwavering commitment to quality has cemented her as an expert in luxury retail, inspiring fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
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