The History of Van Cleef & Arpels
The Van Cleef & Arpels history began with a love story that birthed an empire founded on romance that flourishes to this day. Let’s explore Van Cleef & Arpels’ origins and how they have reimagined the world of high jewelry.
The Origins of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels' history began in the late 1800s when the daughter of a precious stones dealer fell in love with the son of a lapidary — an expert gemstone cutter.
Van Cleef Origin: Early Beginnings
In 1895, Estelle Arpels married Alfred Van Cleef, joining two families devoted to the beauty of precious gems. Alfred opened a small jewelry business with his father-in-law, Salomon Arpels, in 1896. After Salomon’s death, Estelle’s brother Charles joined Alfred in forming a partnership and Van Cleef & Arpels was born.
Van Cleef & Arpels Origin: Family Ties and Partnership
In 1906, Julien Arpels, brother to Estelle and Charles, joined the family business. Together, they opened the first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris. In 1913, Louis Arpels, the third brother, joined the company. In time, Renée Puissant, Alfred and Estelle’s daughter joined the firm as Artistic Director.
From the beginning, Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry flourished from the combination of skills of its founders. The Arpels family specialized in sourcing the finest of gemstones, and Alfred Van Cleef became a master jeweler whose artistry and inspirations would influence the world of luxury jewelry.
Van Cleef & Arpels History: Establishing the Brand
The history of Van Cleef & Arpels began with love and family, powerful forces that continued to shape the Maison as it grew. Indeed, the first design documented in the 1906 sales records was a diamond heart. Romance has remained an animating theme for the company, with some of the world’s most famous lovers turning to Van Cleef & Arpels to memorialize and celebrate their beloved. When Edward VIII abdicated the throne of England to wed Wallis Simpson, he gifted her with three extraordinary pieces.
Throughout its history, Van Cleef & Arpels designs have maintained a distinctly light-hearted air and a sense of whimsy that set the Maison apart from traditional high jewelry, with its emphasis on grandeur and formal style. The softer approach to design makes the exquisite jewelry pieces more versatile and coveted by the most glamorous women in the world.
Van Cleef & Arpels Iconic Creations and Milestones
The joyful exuberance of the 1920s and the strong geometric influences of Art Deco infuse Van Cleef & Arpels’s work. Still, a lively devotion to Art Nouveau and technical innovation remains in the jewelry’s DNA. Let’s review some of the most iconic creations in Van Cleef & Arpels’ history.
Mystery Set Jewels (1933)
In 1933, the Maison patented the Mystery Set™, an innovation that secures exquisitely cut jewels with no visible metal or mounting. The mesmerizing effect lends sensuous curves and lightness to flowers, butterflies, feathers, ballerinas, fairies, and other favorite motifs.
Passe-Partout Necklace (1939)
The Passe-Partout necklace showcases Van Cleef & Arpels’ technical and artistic ingenuity. Based on an extraordinarily flexible gold snake chain and featuring two bejeweled flower slides, it can be transformed from a stunning necklace into a choker, bracelet, belt, or clip and back again.
Created the Crown for Queen Nazli of Egypt (1939)
When the Egyptian Princess Fawzia wed Mohammed Reza Pahlavi, the future Shah of Iran, the Maison created the stunning diamond and platinum ensemble for the princess and crown for Queen Nazli.
Ballerina Brooches (1940s)
These delicate brooches capture the grace and movement of ballet dancers. They are often adorned with diamonds and colored gemstones, reflecting the Maison's love for dance and fluidity.
Zip Necklace (1950s)
The Zip Necklace is one of the most iconic styles in Van Cleef & Arpels’ history. Inspired by the Duchess of Windsor, the design elevates an ordinary fastener to exquisite and functional art. Rendered in precious metals and set with diamonds and colored gems, the piece can be worn open as a necklace or zipped closed for a bracelet.
Pearl and Diamond Ensemble for Grace Kelly (1956)
Prince Rainier III of Monaco commissioned an exquisite ensemble of diamonds and pearls for his wedding to legendary beauty Grace Kelly. Van Cleef and Arpels became the official jeweler for the Principality of Monaco.
Coronation Crown for Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran (1967)
Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran was crowned with a stunning confection of emeralds, rubies, pearls, diamonds, and spinels from the National Treasure. Pierre Arpels selected the stones and then designed and created the extraordinary crown.
First Alhambra Necklace Released (1968)
While high jewelry is the cornerstone of the Maison, Van Cleef & Arpels fine jewelry created a lasting sensation with the Alhambra collection. Inspired by the Moorish quatrefoil and Jacques Arpels’ love of four-leaf clovers and their symbolism for good luck, Alhambra jewelry became a favorite for celebrities, socialites, and royalty. Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Catherine, Princess of Wales, Mariah Carey, and Reese Witherspoon are just a few who have loved wearing their Alhambra collections.
The history of Van Cleef & Arpels is studded with glorious creations and stunning accomplishments that continue to the present day. This all-too-brief review barely skims the surface.
Van Cleef & Arpels Family Legacy and Influence
The history of Van Cleef & Arpels began with a marriage that birthed a dynasty founded on celebrating love and beauty. The two families developed and maintained the brand’s ethos through their commitment to tradition, innovation, and artistic excellence.
Drawing inspiration from nature, Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs play with asymmetry and achieve an appearance of fluidity and movement that seems more akin to fabric than metal and stones. The sense of joy and whimsy that infuses the work was initially at odds with the traditional sobriety of high jewelry. In time, the Maison’s extraordinary success inspired others to take a lighter approach to their creations.
For all their influence on the luxury market, there remains just one Van Cleef & Arpels.